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“The book requires a leisurely pace; anything quicker would endanger the pleasure to be had from the variety on offer…. There is nothing quite like it.”

— The Boston Globe

“Ackroyd gives London a gift, the likes of which more callow cities can only hope, one day, to get.”

— San Francisco Chronicle

“Invariably exciting and immensely enjoyable…. Ackroyd coruscates with ideas and fancies…. The total effect is spectacular and vastly stimulating. ‘When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.’ The same could be said with equal justice of any reader who finds no pleasure or instruction in Ackroyd’s books.”

— The Spectator

“Ackroyd writes in a wonderfully graphic style that carries the reader through historical byways effortlessly.”

— The Denver Post

“A tour de force by a writer of immense skill…. A treasure of information and anecdote about one of the world’s great cities, a book to be taken up again and again for the pleasures that lie within.”

— The Seattle Times

“Ackroyd deserves great praise for writing a book equal to its gargantuan subject…. [It] succeeds on the most expansive and most intimate levels.”

— The Orlando Sentinel

“Packed with strange delights and bizarre occurrences…. Ackroyd is a writer of memorable, eccentrically rhythmic sentences that one wants to quote at length.”

— Newsday

“Enthralling…. Witty and imaginative.”

— Publishers Weekly (starred)

“Wonderful and weighty…. Ackroyd has created a rich celebration of a unique city.”

— The Wall Street Journal

FICTION

The Great Fire of London

The Last Testament of Oscar Wilde

Hawksmoor

Chatterton

First Light

English Music

The House of Doctor Dee

Dan Leno and the Limehouse Golem

Milton in America

The Plato Papers

BIOGRAPHY

T. S. Eliot

Dickens

Blake

The Life of Thomas More

POETRY

The Diversions of Purley

CRITICISM

Notes for a New Culture

Peter Ackroyd

London

Peter Ackroyd is a bestselling writer of both fiction and nonfiction. His most recent books include the biographies Dickens, Blake , and Thomas More and the novels The Trial of Elizabeth Cree, Milton in America , and The Plato Papers . He has won the Whitbread Biography Award, the Royal Society of Literature’s William Heinemann Award (jointly), the James Tait Black Memorial Prize, and The Guardian fiction prize. He lives in London.

For Jain Johnston and Frederick Nicholas Robertson

Contents

List of Illustrations

Chronology

Acknowledgements

The City as Body

From Prehistory to 1066

1 The Sea!

2 The Stones

3 Holy! Holy! Holy!

The Early Middle Ages

4 You Be All Law Worthy

London Contrasts

5 Loud and Everlasting

6 Silence Is Golden

The Late Medieval City

7 This Companye

Onward and Upward

8 Rather Dark and Narrow

9 Packed to Blackness

10 Maps and Antiquarians

Trading Streets and Trading Parishes

11 Where Is the Cheese of Thames Street?

A London Neighbourhood

12 The Crossroads

London as Theatre

13 Show! Show! Show! Show! Show!

14 He Shuld Neuer Trobell the Parish No More

15 Theatrical City

16 Violent Delights

17 Music, Please

18 Signs of the Times

19 All of Them Citizens

Pestilence and Flame

20 A Plague Upon You

21 Painting the Town Red

After the Fire

22 A London Address

23 To Build Anew

Crime and Punishment

24 A Newgate Ballad

25 A Note on Suicide

26 A Penitential History

27 A Rogues Gallery

28 Horrible Murder

29 London’s Opera

30 Raw Lobsters and Others

31 Thereby Hangs a Tale

Voracious London

32 Into the Vortex

33 A Cookery Lesson

34 Eat In or Take Away

35 Market Time

36 Waste Matter

37 A Little Drink or Two

38 Clubbing

39 A Note on Tobacco

40 A Bad Odour

41 You Sexy Thing

42 A Turn of the Dice

London as Crowd

43 Mobocracy

44 What’s New?

The Natural History of London

45 Give the Lydy a Flower

46 Weather Reports

47 A Foggy Day

Night and Day

48 Let There Be Light

49 Night in the City

50 A City Morning

London’s Radicals

51 Where Is the Well of Clerkenwell?

Violent London

52 A Ring! A Ring!

Black Magic, White Magic

53 I Met a Man Who Wasn’t There

54 Knowledge Is Power

A Fever of Building

55 London Will Soon Be Next Door to Us

56 Nothing Quite Like It

London’s Rivers

57 You Cannot Take the Thames with You

58 Dark Thames

59 They Are Lost

Under the Ground

60 What Lies Beneath

Victorian Megalopolis

61 How Many Miles to Babylon?

62 Wild Things

63 If It Wasn’t for the ‘ouses in Between

London’s Outcasts

64 They Are Always with Us

65 Can You Spare a Little Something?

66 They Outvoted Me

Women and Children

67 The Feminine Principle

68 Boys and Girls Come Out to Play

Continuities

69 Have You Got the Time?

70 The Tree on the Corner

East and South

71 The Stinking Pile

72 The South Work

The Centre of Empire

73 Maybe It’s Because I’m a Londoner

74 Empire Day

After the Great War

75 Suburban Dreams

Blitz

76 War News

Refashioning the City

77 Fortune not Design

Cockney Visionaries

78 Unreal City

79 Resurgam

An Essay on Sources

List of Illustrations

BLACK-AND-WHITE INSERT I

Early Londoner admiring London Stone (Guildhall Library, Corporation of London)

John Stow (Guildhall Library, Corporation of London)

Charter of William I (Corporation of London Records Office)

Marcellus Laroon, Street merchants

Aerial sketch of London, 1560 (Guildhall Library, Corporation of London)

View of London Bridge by Anthonis van den Wyngaerde (Ashmolean Museum, Oxford)

Panorama of London by Hollar (Guildhall Library, Corporation of London)

View of Old St. Paul’s by Hollar (Guildhall Library/Corporation of London, UK/Bridgeman Art Library)

The Royal Exchange by Hollar (Courtesy of the Museum of London)

Detail of map charting the Great Fire of London, 1666 (Royal Academy of Arts Library, London, UK/Bridgeman Art Library)

17th c. firemen (Royal Academy of Arts Library, London, UK/Bridgeman Art Library)

Hanging outside of Newgate Prison by Rowlandson (Courtesy of the Museum of London)

Moll Cut-Purse (Courtesy of the Museum of London)

Newgate Prison (Courtesy of the Museum of London)

National Temperance map of London (Courtesy of the Museum of London)

Café Monico, Piccadilly Circus (Courtesy of the Museum of London)

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